Vintage aviator jackets hold a special place in fashion history, combining rugged style with timeless appeal. Whether you're a collector or just love the iconic look, knowing how to identify an authentic vintage aviator jacket is essential. These jackets, especially original military-issue ones, are rare and often come with unique details that differentiate them from modern reproductions. Here’s a guide on how to spot the real deal when shopping for a vintage aviator jacket.

1. Research the History of Aviator Jackets

Before diving into the specifics of identifying a vintage aviator jacket, it’s essential to understand their historical context. Aviator jackets were initially designed for military use in the early 20th century, with some key styles including:

• A-1 (1927): One of the first military flight jackets, known for its button closure and knit cuffs.
• A-2 (1931): A classic leather flight jacket with a zip front and snap-flap pockets, widely used during WWII.
• B-3 (1934): Made for bomber pilots flying at high altitudes, this jacket featured heavy sheepskin and shearling lining for warmth.
• G-1 (WWII-era): A leather flight jacket similar to the A-2 but with a fur collar, issued to the U.S. Navy and Marine Corps.

Understanding these classic designs helps you know what to look for in a genuine vintage piece.

2. Check the Materials and Construction

One of the biggest indicators of an authentic vintage aviator jacket is the material it’s made from and how it’s constructed. Vintage jackets were made with high-quality, durable materials to withstand harsh conditions in military aircraft.

Key Features to Look For:

• Leather Type:
  • Real leather: Vintage aviator jackets were typically made from horsehide, goatskin, or sheepskin. Genuine leather will have a natural texture, slight imperfections, and a unique patina that develops over time.
  • Feel the leather: Authentic vintage leather will feel soft yet sturdy, with some weight to it. Modern reproductions might feel too smooth or plasticky if made from faux leather or inferior materials.
  • Look for wear: Vintage jackets often have signs of wear, such as creases, slight fading, or small scuffs. These imperfections add character to the jacket and are signs of authenticity.
• Lining:
  • Shearling lining (B-3 jackets): Real vintage B-3 bomber jackets feature thick, natural shearling lining for warmth. Check for signs of aging in the shearling, such as slight yellowing or matting.
  • Cotton lining (A-2 jackets): Many A-2 jackets have a cotton lining. Look for natural wear, slight fraying, or faded areas that indicate genuine vintage use.
• Stitching and Seams:
  • High-quality stitching: Authentic vintage jackets were built to last, so check the stitching. The seams should be tight and even. Look for signs of reinforced stitching at stress points like the shoulders, cuffs, and zipper area.
  • Hand-sewn details: Many early aviator jackets were hand-sewn, so you may notice slight irregularities in the stitching, which can be a positive sign of authenticity.

3. Examine the Zippers, Buttons, and Hardware

Hardware details can provide critical clues about whether a jacket is vintage or a modern reproduction. Older jackets typically used high-quality hardware that evolved over time.

Key Hardware Features:

• Zippers:
  • Vintage Zippers: Many vintage aviator jackets used Talon or Crown zippers, which were common during the WWII era. These zippers often have distinct shapes and markings that can help authenticate the jacket.
  • Brass Zippers: Look for original brass zippers, which tend to darken and develop a patina over time. Modern jackets might use plastic or lightweight zippers, which are less durable.
• Buttons and Snaps:
  • Original Snaps: Vintage A-2 and G-1 jackets often have snap buttons for pocket closures. Check the back of the snaps for manufacturer markings, which can help date the jacket.
  • Reinforced Buttonholes: In older jackets, buttonholes and snap closures were reinforced with heavy-duty stitching. Check for this durability as it indicates a genuine military jacket.

4. Look for Labels and Tags

Original vintage aviator jackets often have manufacturer labels or military contract tags inside. These tags contain valuable information about the jacket’s authenticity and origin.

What to Check on Labels:

• Military Contract Numbers: Military-issued jackets will have contract numbers that indicate they were made for the U.S. military. For example, A-2 and B-3 jackets from WWII often have contract labels that list the manufacturer, contract number, and military specifications.
• Manufacturer Name: Many well-known companies produced aviator jackets for the military, including Aero Leather, Rough Wear, Perry Sportswear, and Werber Sportswear. Look for these names on the labels.
• Date of Manufacture: Some labels may include the year the jacket was made. This is especially useful for identifying original jackets from specific wartime periods.

Missing Labels:

• If the label is missing or faded, it’s not necessarily a deal-breaker. Many authentic vintage jackets have lost their labels due to years of wear. However, the overall construction and materials should still provide clues to the jacket’s authenticity.

5. Assess the Fit and Silhouette

Vintage aviator jackets were designed for functionality, which often reflects in their fit and silhouette.

Fit Characteristics:

• Shorter Length: Many vintage aviator jackets have a shorter length compared to modern styles. They were designed to sit at or just above the waist to allow pilots to comfortably sit in the cockpit.
• Roomy Shoulders: Vintage jackets often have broader shoulders, allowing for greater movement and comfort while flying.
• Snug Cuffs and Waistbands: Aviator jackets typically feature knit cuffs and waistbands (in the case of A-2 jackets) or leather straps (on B-3 jackets) to keep cold air out. The fit in these areas should be snug but not overly tight.

6. Check for Authentic Military Markings

Some vintage aviator jackets may feature additional military markings, patches, or personalization that help authenticate their origin.

Common Military Markings:

• Squadron Patches: Many aviators personalized their jackets with squadron patches. While these are often reproductions in modern jackets, authentic vintage jackets may have original patches that show signs of wear.
• Stencil Markings: Some jackets may have stenciled markings, including the pilot’s name or rank, on the inside or outside of the jacket. Faded or worn-out stencils can be a good indicator of age and authenticity.

7. Be Cautious of Reproductions

Reproductions of vintage aviator jackets are common, especially with the popularity of retro military fashion. While many reproductions are well-made, it’s essential to distinguish between an original and a replica if you’re after a true vintage piece.

Tips to Avoid Reproductions:

• Too Perfect Condition: Genuine vintage jackets often show signs of wear, aging, or slight imperfections. A jacket that looks too new, even if it claims to be vintage, could be a reproduction.
• Incorrect Materials: Be wary of jackets made from synthetic materials or faux leather. Authentic vintage aviator jackets were made from real leather, shearling, or high-quality natural fabrics.
• Low Price: Authentic vintage aviator jackets, especially those from WWII, can be quite expensive due to their rarity. If the price seems too good to be true, it likely is.

Conclusion

Spotting a real vintage aviator jacket requires a keen eye for detail, a good understanding of the jacket’s history, and a thorough inspection of the materials, construction, and labels. By paying attention to the leather quality, hardware, stitching, and historical markings, you can distinguish between an authentic vintage piece and a modern reproduction. Whether you’re a collector or simply love the rugged style of an aviator jacket, knowing how to identify the real deal will help you invest in a jacket that not only looks great but also carries a piece of history.